What a week it’s been. We were busy, busy every day and up late drinking espresso and sambucca in the Campo. Angela left yesterday and I’m waiting for a phone call from Kim and Mike to meet them at the Termini. So I have some time to write. I feel like I haven’t talked to you all in a long while and I have to say I’m getting a little home sick.
Haven’t they invented those machines yet where you get transported from here to there in a heartbeat? No, too bad, because I’d love to stop by for a visit. Truth be told though, I think the mozzarella lady would miss me. We’ve been meeting at least three times a week.

Last weekend we went to San Giovanni In Laterano. Built in 318 it is the first church in Rome. It was the pope’s home until 1870 and still is his as the bishop of Rome. I’m learning a lot of Rome’s history. It can’t be helped it’s visible everywhere you go.
Don’t ask me what’s going on here today. I watch the news but don’t understand a thing, they insist on speaking Italian. Is that rich guy still the president?

We finally got to the beach without rain. We even packed a lunch and rented chairs. I put my toes into the water. Angela went in all the way. She never was a girl happy with half measures. It’s all or nothing at all.
What do you think of those Speedos? Attractive, no?



Tuesday we went to Tivoli. We wanted to see Hadrian’s Villa and the Villa d’Este. All the guidebooks say it is difficult to get to Hadrian’s Villa, but it’s not. All you need are better directions and our bus driver. After asking about 4 people we found the bus stop in Tivoli that would take us to Hadrian’s. The bus left us steps from the gate of the villa complex. We asked the bus driver to help us and we think he changed his route to leave us near the site. When we took that bus back to Rome later that day it went a different way. Isn’t that a great story? I thought so.



Going back to Tivoli from Hadrian’s was a little dicey. See the bus coming down the street? That’s the whole town and the tabbachi was closed and we didn’t have a ticket and some women we asked for help thought she had some unused tickets she would be happy to sell us. What a doll, right? And then her chubby hubby came outside and started yelling at her and she rolled her eyes and answered him. This is what they said,
Him, “what the hell are you doing? It’s late, where’s my dinner?”
Her, “Do you want these two stupid American women to stand out here all night because they didn’t have bus tickets? What are you an animal?”
Him, “Well if they’re too stupid to remember to buy tickets it’s not my fault. Let them walk back to Tivoli. What about my supper?”
Her, “My mother told me not to marry you. I think maybe she was right. What if I didn’t come in and make your dinner, what would you do starve to death?”
Him, “Your mother was a big mouth, you know that? I never liked her anyway and no I wouldn’t starve to death. My momma would always have a nice bowl of macaroni waiting for me.”




She turned her back on him and he walked inside. “Stupido,” she said quietly and I don’t know if she meant him or us but I’m putting my money on him.
The bus did come and our tickets were good after all. (Maybe she did mean us,)



Some photos from the Viillas.

Every week we have to go to the launderia and have this jerky guy put our laundry in the machines and charge us 3 times what we should pay, but half the price of the regular laundry. Since we have to go there every week I thought you should have a chance to see the place.

Beautiful reflections everywhere

I’m really getting very fond of the B boys, Borromini, Bernini and Bramante. Fine fellows all and no matter what they thought of each other I think they’re all pretty good. I love their buildings and sculptures. Some very good stuff. And you’ve got to love the Mikes too. Merisi and Buonarrotti We went to Sant Agostino and couldn’t find the Madonna di Loreto. If anyone knows where it is please let us know. We’re going back again. How could we miss this painting?
The fun thing about going to these churches to see these Caravaggio’s, Raphael’s and Carracci’s etc. is that while all the other tourists are waiting on line for the Vatican Museum you have these places all to yourselves. Why wasn’t anyone at the Barberini Gallery? They’re got good stuff there and it’s practically empty. Hey, why am I telling you all this? You’ll just go blabbing and then…
I’m just sticking in various and unrelated photos tonight because I like them and can’t make up a story about them. And since I still haven’t figured out how this damn stupid blog thing really works and I just keep faking it, you’re getting a mix of photos and words that have nothing to do with each other. Deal!
Two popes who keep coming up – Julius II and Innocent X (Romans love those numerals don’t they) I have no idea how they did with the spiritual stuff but they sure outdid themselves in the building and arts department. Tell me, were they rich before they were popes or were they rich because they were popes?
Rome is a noisy place. I’d have to say noisier than New York. The streets are tiny, people share the space with cars and vespas so you’re often flattening yourself against a wall and no one has a sense of humor. Did you know this about Romans? Did they leave it in Naples before they arrived?
Oh, and everybody, everybody smokes. They smoke on vespas, in cars, while walking the baby. Haven’t they heard the news?
Got to go, there’s a missing Caravaggio I’ve got to locate.
Enjoy the pics. Talk later.

Night time's the right time

I never know which photo is going to come up first but I know these are two night photos. One is Via Guilia, which I think is Julius II's brain child and Angela and I love to go there and it's right near the apartment.






This is part of the forum at night and I think it's great. The lighted building is not in the forum and I don't have a clue what it is but I know one of you smart guys knows.

Damn it's hot here

See this big building? See that guy on the porch? Because of him nobody could get into that building all day. What does he think he owns the joint.







It’s been hot in Rome every day. Usually in the 80’s. Just take note of these tourists.
You think vacationing is easy? Not……

Here is a photo of Keats’ friend’s marker. Note the pallet and brushes. Cool, right? Just., take note



We went to the beach Tuesday and it decided it was about time it rained. Gatto and carne type rain. So we took a few pics of the Tyrrhenian Sea and guess what? It looks just like the Atlantic except it’s freddo instead of cold. Brrr… I know my friend Chris will be dismayed when she learns that I didn’t even put my little toe into the surf. Don’t worry dear friend, I’m getting another chance on Monday.
So we left the beach and took the train back to Piramide – where there’s actually a pyramid. We went to the Testaccio food market and bought some fruit and carciofe and plums. Then we went to the cemetery where all the noncatholics who die in Rome are buried. The noncatholics who die outside of Rome are on their own. Anyway, Keats and Shelley are buried there and a lot of other people who aren’t famous. Let me tell you it’s jam packed so don’t think abboudit. Here is a photo of Keats’ marker. “Name writ on water”. This made me weep.

The Portense Mad House

The Porta Portense market is something everyone should do once. And I’ve done it. So if you have a strong urge to go to a flea market that goes at least a mile, that has hawkers chasing you through the stalls and sells mostly junk I’ll be happy to give you directions.
This is the dress style everybody’s using this year. You can find this outfit in one of the clothing drops on Via Trastevere. Everybody goes there for the latest fashions.

Here is one more picture for the edification of all those out there who think since you haven’t seen me in a photo that I may be hiding out in Newark, NJ and stealing some unsuspecting dolt’s online photos.
I call this photo 3 women in a bar with a laptop. I think it says it all. Don’t you agree.

The Gunk Is Back

Okay Justine you asked for it. Now this may be a mystery at first but give this photo a good look before you decide I’m crazy. See anyone you know? Look at that crowd at the Treve Fountain. Including the crazy German students, there were 12 thousand people in this picture. The Germans are way in the back but they were loud enough so that it didn’t matter. Don’t believe my numbers? Count them yourself. So did you discover the known element in the photo?
Night at the Treve Fountain cannot be crazier in the beginning of September. I believe students from all over the world are here and the majority were drinking at the fountain that night.

I can't find the right way to get this blog online. I have so many great photos but I am not good at taking my pictures online.
Anyway... I know I'll work it out before too long. I spoke to Lisa on skype tonight and saw the whole family. If you've got a skype account or want to download one pleasedo so. It's great to see everyone even if it's only on the computer as I sit in a bar.
I found out that there is wifi in the Borgese gardens. But you have to hope for a sunny day when there is no museum or other site that you're dying to see. I love the comments you're putting on my blog. Justine I promise to get some pictures of
someone doing something interesting besides beautiful sites. Angela has promised to throw herself in front of the next tram that comes down the street. I've asked her not to, but she insists that everything is worth it for art. What a woman!!!
It's eleven and I've got to go all the way back to the Campo from Navona. (Doesn't that sound cool?) Love you all and will send pictures next time. Keep writing. Although I'm here and you're there I miss you all terribly.

St. Ivo's, bernini, bellini(?) Isn't that a crepe with cheese?

This is a wonderful courtyard and we plan on having lunch there everyday.

Campidoglio

Tell the truth, Mikie B sure knows his way around architecture. I can't believe I've never seen this before and his staircase ain't bad either. What's with the big white building with the horses on the roof? Doesn't it just ruin the skyline?

We tried to get an apartment in this neighborhood but we couldn't find the landlord.
It’s been a while since I’ve been able to get serious time online and to upgrade this blog.
I’ve saved a few interesting photos for the web but nothing is in sync. The photos I’m including are from days ago and my current photos are not ready for web consumption.
The Italian foods in season are chicory, zucchini and all types of tomatoes.
I’m including my last written blog from Saturday when Angela arrived and it’s been fun, fun, fun since then.
I love you all and expect you all to write – often. Italians still not that friendly but I’m working on them. They will cave!!!

It is 7:30 in bella Roma and we’re coming to the end of our 6th day. I’m listening to Otis Redding on my ipod and feeling real mellow and at ease. Whether the Italians like me or not they’re stuck with me for the next 9 weeks. Angela will be joining us tomorrow afternoon and she’s in for a treat. I think. Tomorrow is “La Notte Bianca:” and the city is going to be one big party until the morning. Every museum is free and there will be dancing in the streets. We may amble over to Testaccio to check out the action there.
We were told by Morgana (young, pretty and French and no actual relation to Arthur) that we’d probably have a good time in that neighborhood. If I can get her photo tomorrow I’ll include it in this blog
We had a drawing lesson with Tim Allen at the Castel S’Angelo. First it poured and then we had the most magnificent skies. My picture was okay but Pat’s was pretty damn good, no matter how much she whines.
Now I’m sitting in the Magnolia bar because I thought they had wifi here but they don’t . According to the owner, who looks 12 they did have it but it went kaploohy and who knows when I’ll be back. We finally ate at the restaurant under our apartment and I was never serviced a meal so fast. But the owner, Paola, did give me a hug. So I think I get some points for that. I think there is a friend in the making for me. I have a picture of her restaurant somewhere and I’ll send it to you sooon.
I want to show you some picture of Roma.
The first is a bead store owned by someone who is definitely not Italian. After I took two pictures he started to get very excited, maybe even angry. I think he thought I was going to take the secrets of his beading establishment to American and sell it to the . Who knows? He may be right. But here’s the photo, which I think is fun.
Yesterday we went to the Museo de Roma and these four ugly statues were guarding the entrance. I think, considering their they could scare anyone off.
Then of course we went to draw at the Castel S’Angelo and it started to rain and this is how St. Peter’s looks in the rain. It’s better to be in Rome looking at St Peter’s in the rain then a lot of places I can think of.
Caio, babmini
A domaini,
Emelia

Take a look at those veggies. You’ve never seen anything like that in the USA.
These are the original organics. Only eat what’s in season.
More to come soon. Pat is sitting by my side being a real bb and telling me how I have to arrange this blog. I’d throw her out except she’s the only one in this group who can really read a map
Talk later….

Would you buy mozzarella from this woman? We did and lived to tell the tale. Actually she was very nice and her friend spoke to us in rapid fire Italian while Pat and I stared at her with mouths agape. When we realized she wouldn’t take “no comprende” as an answer, we nodded yes, yes.

Here is where I’m living by day and by night. There is the noisiest restaurant in the world right below our apartment, but hopefully only on Saturday nights.
So far it’s been hot and sunny but the nights have been pretty cool.
Sergio Panizza is a man you should all meet. He is the rep. for the rental company here in Roma. You want a fan? Isn’t one enough? What do you mean the pots are rusty?
No stereo? As he scratches his head, suddenly unable to understand English. What to do, what to do? Can’t you shop for those things and I’ll reimburse you? I almost say yes, but my smart side says no. This side of me is often in hiding, but lately it’s been in the forefront of this adventure
.
Would

by day and by night. There is the noisiest restaurant in the world right below our apartment, but hopefully only on Saturday night.
So far it’s been hot and sunny but the nights have been pretty cool. Sergio Panizza is a man you should all meet. He is the rep. for the rental company here in Roma. You want a fan? Isn’t one enough? What do you mean the pots are rusty?
No stereo? As he scratches his head, suddenly unable to understand English. What to do, what to do? Can’t you shop for those things and I’ll reimburse you? I almost say yes, but my smart side says no. This side of me is often in hiding, but lately it’s been in the forefront of this adventure

Would you buy mozzarella from this woman? We did and lived to tell the tale. Actually she was very nice and her friend spoke to us in rapid fire Italian while Pat and I stared at her with mouths agape. When we realized she wouldn’t take “no comprende” as an answer, we nodded yes, yes.Take a look at those veggies. You’ve never seen anything like that in the USA.
These are the original organics. Only eat what’s in season.
More to come soon. Pat is sitting by my side being a real bb and telling me how I have to arrange this blog. I’d throw her out except she’s the only one in this group who can really read a map
Talk later….

No Time Now

Did I aready post this? Because I can't really read Italian I may have posted when I meant to spell check, but then how would
an italian site spell check an English post? Hmmmmmmm.