Almost Christmas

I'm back from Rome and pretty well settled into my old, new routine in Montclair. I just wanted to say hi to anyone who might still be checking in. I may be gearing up for a new adventure. I thought I may have found a new adventure in a known place but it didn't pan out. But I'm ever hopeful and positive.
Have a wonderful Christmas and easy on the resolutions for the New Year.
Talk soon,
E

In the home stretch

Do you realize these guys are expected to protect the Pope? If you wanted serious protection
Hey, where’ve you all gone? What happen to the zippy repartee’? Where’s all the great advice? Don’t you want to know if I’ve finally gotten to San Andrea Delle Quirinale? Well, I did and more. Went to Orvieto and saw Signorelle’s “Last Judgement”. It cost me four euros to see it. I don’t believe Signorelle slept one minute while he painted that.
I never saw devils so fiendishly and energetically going about their work. Actually they were downright enthusiastic.

I little devil relief. Take a close look at this. This is the first bikini. Circa 100BC. I never noticed if there was a bottom.
I don't think so.




I can’t decide if I can’t wait to come home or if I need another few weeks to understand the Romans.
There are moments when I feel I’ve made a real connection and other times when I absolutely know that I’d die if I knew what they were really thinking.
They’re generally pretty nice if they’re trying to sell you something. That's mean and unkind and I promised myself I'd learn to be nicer. So far it's not working. In truth you must love the Romans because they have the great good sense to live in a wonderful place filled with great stuff.
Here’s a quick list:
Caravaggio
Raphael
Filipino LIppi
Bernini,
Borromini
Michaelangelo
Fab boots
Cool costume jewelry
One euro transporation
Vino, vino, vino
Gorgonzola dolce
Farneses, Borheses, Phamphilis Roveres
Trams, metro and ferroverie
Gorgeous men
Gorgeous men
Gorgeous men
Oh, and have I mentioned…. Gorgeous men?
And for you out there who would like to comment on how smashingly funny I am, don’t bother, I’ve been told.
Here are some of my photos and the things I’ve been seeing.






Later,
Emelia

Stll Walking, may be crawling soon.

My oh my have I traveled. See those feet? They're 4" shorter then when I began this trek. You'd never guess what these feet have seen ... and what these feet have avoided. It's amazing what the Romans will leave on their sidewalks.



It's definitely not Montclair, NJ. It's probably not like anywhere where any of you live. But it's neat and I get to see it every day.
More then half my time here has passed and part of me can't wait to be home again and there's a part that knows I'm going to miss this like crazy.
I've been doing this online thing for over 6 weeks now and hope you're reading it and enjoying what I've had to say. Please don't be shy about responding. I want to hear from all of you. I think its been a real kick.





Later

Lost in Roma, Not a bad place to be.

I miss all the great map readers, direction knowers, east, west, north, south direction finders who’ve been here. The people who know without needing a compass which way the river is, which way the piazza this or the palazzo that is simply because they’re been there once. The Pats, Mikes and even the Angelas of this world who can point me in the right direction without looking at the map for 15 minutes. What happened to my internal compass? What happened God? Why wasn’t I given that knowledge? Why do I walk into the street and immediately feel confused? Is this fair? Is this right?
How many times do I have to go to the lavandaria before I know whether to turn right or left? Will five times be the charm? Huh, huh. I was standing in front of Andrea delle Valle, trying not to cry, looking right, looking left. My son-in-law is not saying a thing. He’s a very nice guy because I know he’s thinking stuff I don’t want to hear and he has the good grace not to say it.
“Hmmm, let me think? Angela said the river is right, right? No, no, she said she thought the river – right but it was not. But do I have to go towards the river to get to the wash and dry or do I have to go,,.. Oh, God, I’m lost again.
F… it, take a chance. Go right. Whoopiie! Correctomundo. God is great, God is good. We thank you for the right direction. Amen.
Amen brothers and sisters, talk later.

The Good, The Bad, The Crazy

When coming to Italy you must be wary of two kinds of workers. They live on the edge of reason and can blow at any time. The first are the cashiers at Despar (supermarket) on the Torre Argentina. They are fevered in their quest for exact change. They will not change a fifty. Well, maybe they would if your bill was 49.98, but don’t try it if your bill is 19.65 or 32.78. They will absolutely refuse to change a big bill and will sit there with their hand out, shaking their heads, rolling their eyeballs and commiserating with the nearly rioting customers backing up behind you. It’s a terrifying ordeal. This is their job: They sit in a chair, ask you if you want a “borsa”, push your items over the computer reader, sometimes twice if need be, tell you your amount in the fastest Italian possible, responding to your quizzical look by whipping the amount viewer in your direction, then they slump into their chair preparing for the inevitable battle of the coins with a look of utter hopelessness because they know. They know without a doubt that you won’t have anything near the exact amount. If by some trick of fate you do have the exact amount they throw it into the cash register with barely a nod.
The other day I was positive I was going to outsmart these toughies. I had my credit card in my pocket at the ready. Why hadn’t I thought about this before? What a simple solution - always the exact amount. Easy no? Easy? No.
Totally cocky, with a smirk on my face, I whipped that credit card from my pocket and handed it to that cashier. She eyeballed the credit card, looked at me and asked as she leaned back in her chair with the same hopeless look I’d come to know well. “I.D.” she asked? Foiled again! I couldn’t find the copy of my passport I thought I always carried with me and I had to empty my backpack to find enough money to pay her while she and the guy behind me clucked their tongues to a crescendo
Now all anyone has to do is whisper “Despar” and I break into a sweat. But I’m formulating a plan to master my fear. I’ll let
you know how it works out.



These are the people I had breathing down my neck at Despar. You can only see their backs but believe there's murder in their eyes.

The second kinds of worker to watch out for are bathroom attendants. I don’t know if something truly horrible happened to these women in a previous incarnation or when they left home this morning but there is no denying it had to be traumatic. You can find these attendants in public bathrooms in the Borghese Gardens, the Palentine, the Colosseum, almost anywhere there is a public bathroom. These women are way beyond huffing, puffing and eyeball rolling. They go for the full-throated, eardrum-damaging yell. They are equal opportunity screamers, shaking their mops at every race, creed and socio-economic group. Of course they always do it in Italian so I think it makes it that much more frightening for us who do not speak the language.
Why are they off their feed? On the surface of things it seems to be: A. Women going into the men’s toilet. B. Men going into the women’s toilet. An easy mistake if the doors are open, they look alike. C. Anyone goes anywhere if the floors are recently mopped. D. You need to puke. E. Your wife needs to puke and you follow her. F. You knock something over. G. You move too quickly. H. You just won’t listen to the damn instructions – you idiot.
I thought the girls at Despar were scary until I saw one of these women in action. It was enough to stop me from peeing for the whole day. And when they start yelling at you they can’t seem to stop themselves. One man was followed half way up the steps of the Palatine Hill, I thought he was going to cry I never saw what happened to his wife. She was probably made a prisoner in the stall. It could really happen you know. Anything is possible. You just don’t know what we’re dealing with here. Ask Pat. Ask Angela. They’ll vouch for me.
Do you think these women are tested and hired just for these character…traits? Could the department of arts and parks or whoever is in charge, examin these people and like what they see? Is aggressive toilet maintenance beneficial to the city?
Are they trying to save …water? Soap? Toilet paper? Please, someone let me know, I haven’t peed in 3 days.



This lady has an actual tape of a bathroom attendant on a rampage.





This is the results of an encounter with the bathroom lady on a rampage.

I think I've said enough about this.
Talk later.

What a week it’s been. We were busy, busy every day and up late drinking espresso and sambucca in the Campo. Angela left yesterday and I’m waiting for a phone call from Kim and Mike to meet them at the Termini. So I have some time to write. I feel like I haven’t talked to you all in a long while and I have to say I’m getting a little home sick.
Haven’t they invented those machines yet where you get transported from here to there in a heartbeat? No, too bad, because I’d love to stop by for a visit. Truth be told though, I think the mozzarella lady would miss me. We’ve been meeting at least three times a week.

Last weekend we went to San Giovanni In Laterano. Built in 318 it is the first church in Rome. It was the pope’s home until 1870 and still is his as the bishop of Rome. I’m learning a lot of Rome’s history. It can’t be helped it’s visible everywhere you go.
Don’t ask me what’s going on here today. I watch the news but don’t understand a thing, they insist on speaking Italian. Is that rich guy still the president?

We finally got to the beach without rain. We even packed a lunch and rented chairs. I put my toes into the water. Angela went in all the way. She never was a girl happy with half measures. It’s all or nothing at all.
What do you think of those Speedos? Attractive, no?



Tuesday we went to Tivoli. We wanted to see Hadrian’s Villa and the Villa d’Este. All the guidebooks say it is difficult to get to Hadrian’s Villa, but it’s not. All you need are better directions and our bus driver. After asking about 4 people we found the bus stop in Tivoli that would take us to Hadrian’s. The bus left us steps from the gate of the villa complex. We asked the bus driver to help us and we think he changed his route to leave us near the site. When we took that bus back to Rome later that day it went a different way. Isn’t that a great story? I thought so.



Going back to Tivoli from Hadrian’s was a little dicey. See the bus coming down the street? That’s the whole town and the tabbachi was closed and we didn’t have a ticket and some women we asked for help thought she had some unused tickets she would be happy to sell us. What a doll, right? And then her chubby hubby came outside and started yelling at her and she rolled her eyes and answered him. This is what they said,
Him, “what the hell are you doing? It’s late, where’s my dinner?”
Her, “Do you want these two stupid American women to stand out here all night because they didn’t have bus tickets? What are you an animal?”
Him, “Well if they’re too stupid to remember to buy tickets it’s not my fault. Let them walk back to Tivoli. What about my supper?”
Her, “My mother told me not to marry you. I think maybe she was right. What if I didn’t come in and make your dinner, what would you do starve to death?”
Him, “Your mother was a big mouth, you know that? I never liked her anyway and no I wouldn’t starve to death. My momma would always have a nice bowl of macaroni waiting for me.”




She turned her back on him and he walked inside. “Stupido,” she said quietly and I don’t know if she meant him or us but I’m putting my money on him.
The bus did come and our tickets were good after all. (Maybe she did mean us,)



Some photos from the Viillas.

Every week we have to go to the launderia and have this jerky guy put our laundry in the machines and charge us 3 times what we should pay, but half the price of the regular laundry. Since we have to go there every week I thought you should have a chance to see the place.

Beautiful reflections everywhere

I’m really getting very fond of the B boys, Borromini, Bernini and Bramante. Fine fellows all and no matter what they thought of each other I think they’re all pretty good. I love their buildings and sculptures. Some very good stuff. And you’ve got to love the Mikes too. Merisi and Buonarrotti We went to Sant Agostino and couldn’t find the Madonna di Loreto. If anyone knows where it is please let us know. We’re going back again. How could we miss this painting?
The fun thing about going to these churches to see these Caravaggio’s, Raphael’s and Carracci’s etc. is that while all the other tourists are waiting on line for the Vatican Museum you have these places all to yourselves. Why wasn’t anyone at the Barberini Gallery? They’re got good stuff there and it’s practically empty. Hey, why am I telling you all this? You’ll just go blabbing and then…
I’m just sticking in various and unrelated photos tonight because I like them and can’t make up a story about them. And since I still haven’t figured out how this damn stupid blog thing really works and I just keep faking it, you’re getting a mix of photos and words that have nothing to do with each other. Deal!
Two popes who keep coming up – Julius II and Innocent X (Romans love those numerals don’t they) I have no idea how they did with the spiritual stuff but they sure outdid themselves in the building and arts department. Tell me, were they rich before they were popes or were they rich because they were popes?
Rome is a noisy place. I’d have to say noisier than New York. The streets are tiny, people share the space with cars and vespas so you’re often flattening yourself against a wall and no one has a sense of humor. Did you know this about Romans? Did they leave it in Naples before they arrived?
Oh, and everybody, everybody smokes. They smoke on vespas, in cars, while walking the baby. Haven’t they heard the news?
Got to go, there’s a missing Caravaggio I’ve got to locate.
Enjoy the pics. Talk later.

Night time's the right time

I never know which photo is going to come up first but I know these are two night photos. One is Via Guilia, which I think is Julius II's brain child and Angela and I love to go there and it's right near the apartment.






This is part of the forum at night and I think it's great. The lighted building is not in the forum and I don't have a clue what it is but I know one of you smart guys knows.

Damn it's hot here

See this big building? See that guy on the porch? Because of him nobody could get into that building all day. What does he think he owns the joint.







It’s been hot in Rome every day. Usually in the 80’s. Just take note of these tourists.
You think vacationing is easy? Not……

Here is a photo of Keats’ friend’s marker. Note the pallet and brushes. Cool, right? Just., take note



We went to the beach Tuesday and it decided it was about time it rained. Gatto and carne type rain. So we took a few pics of the Tyrrhenian Sea and guess what? It looks just like the Atlantic except it’s freddo instead of cold. Brrr… I know my friend Chris will be dismayed when she learns that I didn’t even put my little toe into the surf. Don’t worry dear friend, I’m getting another chance on Monday.
So we left the beach and took the train back to Piramide – where there’s actually a pyramid. We went to the Testaccio food market and bought some fruit and carciofe and plums. Then we went to the cemetery where all the noncatholics who die in Rome are buried. The noncatholics who die outside of Rome are on their own. Anyway, Keats and Shelley are buried there and a lot of other people who aren’t famous. Let me tell you it’s jam packed so don’t think abboudit. Here is a photo of Keats’ marker. “Name writ on water”. This made me weep.

The Portense Mad House

The Porta Portense market is something everyone should do once. And I’ve done it. So if you have a strong urge to go to a flea market that goes at least a mile, that has hawkers chasing you through the stalls and sells mostly junk I’ll be happy to give you directions.
This is the dress style everybody’s using this year. You can find this outfit in one of the clothing drops on Via Trastevere. Everybody goes there for the latest fashions.

Here is one more picture for the edification of all those out there who think since you haven’t seen me in a photo that I may be hiding out in Newark, NJ and stealing some unsuspecting dolt’s online photos.
I call this photo 3 women in a bar with a laptop. I think it says it all. Don’t you agree.

The Gunk Is Back

Okay Justine you asked for it. Now this may be a mystery at first but give this photo a good look before you decide I’m crazy. See anyone you know? Look at that crowd at the Treve Fountain. Including the crazy German students, there were 12 thousand people in this picture. The Germans are way in the back but they were loud enough so that it didn’t matter. Don’t believe my numbers? Count them yourself. So did you discover the known element in the photo?
Night at the Treve Fountain cannot be crazier in the beginning of September. I believe students from all over the world are here and the majority were drinking at the fountain that night.

I can't find the right way to get this blog online. I have so many great photos but I am not good at taking my pictures online.
Anyway... I know I'll work it out before too long. I spoke to Lisa on skype tonight and saw the whole family. If you've got a skype account or want to download one pleasedo so. It's great to see everyone even if it's only on the computer as I sit in a bar.
I found out that there is wifi in the Borgese gardens. But you have to hope for a sunny day when there is no museum or other site that you're dying to see. I love the comments you're putting on my blog. Justine I promise to get some pictures of
someone doing something interesting besides beautiful sites. Angela has promised to throw herself in front of the next tram that comes down the street. I've asked her not to, but she insists that everything is worth it for art. What a woman!!!
It's eleven and I've got to go all the way back to the Campo from Navona. (Doesn't that sound cool?) Love you all and will send pictures next time. Keep writing. Although I'm here and you're there I miss you all terribly.

St. Ivo's, bernini, bellini(?) Isn't that a crepe with cheese?

This is a wonderful courtyard and we plan on having lunch there everyday.

Campidoglio

Tell the truth, Mikie B sure knows his way around architecture. I can't believe I've never seen this before and his staircase ain't bad either. What's with the big white building with the horses on the roof? Doesn't it just ruin the skyline?

We tried to get an apartment in this neighborhood but we couldn't find the landlord.
It’s been a while since I’ve been able to get serious time online and to upgrade this blog.
I’ve saved a few interesting photos for the web but nothing is in sync. The photos I’m including are from days ago and my current photos are not ready for web consumption.
The Italian foods in season are chicory, zucchini and all types of tomatoes.
I’m including my last written blog from Saturday when Angela arrived and it’s been fun, fun, fun since then.
I love you all and expect you all to write – often. Italians still not that friendly but I’m working on them. They will cave!!!

It is 7:30 in bella Roma and we’re coming to the end of our 6th day. I’m listening to Otis Redding on my ipod and feeling real mellow and at ease. Whether the Italians like me or not they’re stuck with me for the next 9 weeks. Angela will be joining us tomorrow afternoon and she’s in for a treat. I think. Tomorrow is “La Notte Bianca:” and the city is going to be one big party until the morning. Every museum is free and there will be dancing in the streets. We may amble over to Testaccio to check out the action there.
We were told by Morgana (young, pretty and French and no actual relation to Arthur) that we’d probably have a good time in that neighborhood. If I can get her photo tomorrow I’ll include it in this blog
We had a drawing lesson with Tim Allen at the Castel S’Angelo. First it poured and then we had the most magnificent skies. My picture was okay but Pat’s was pretty damn good, no matter how much she whines.
Now I’m sitting in the Magnolia bar because I thought they had wifi here but they don’t . According to the owner, who looks 12 they did have it but it went kaploohy and who knows when I’ll be back. We finally ate at the restaurant under our apartment and I was never serviced a meal so fast. But the owner, Paola, did give me a hug. So I think I get some points for that. I think there is a friend in the making for me. I have a picture of her restaurant somewhere and I’ll send it to you sooon.
I want to show you some picture of Roma.
The first is a bead store owned by someone who is definitely not Italian. After I took two pictures he started to get very excited, maybe even angry. I think he thought I was going to take the secrets of his beading establishment to American and sell it to the . Who knows? He may be right. But here’s the photo, which I think is fun.
Yesterday we went to the Museo de Roma and these four ugly statues were guarding the entrance. I think, considering their they could scare anyone off.
Then of course we went to draw at the Castel S’Angelo and it started to rain and this is how St. Peter’s looks in the rain. It’s better to be in Rome looking at St Peter’s in the rain then a lot of places I can think of.
Caio, babmini
A domaini,
Emelia

Take a look at those veggies. You’ve never seen anything like that in the USA.
These are the original organics. Only eat what’s in season.
More to come soon. Pat is sitting by my side being a real bb and telling me how I have to arrange this blog. I’d throw her out except she’s the only one in this group who can really read a map
Talk later….

Would you buy mozzarella from this woman? We did and lived to tell the tale. Actually she was very nice and her friend spoke to us in rapid fire Italian while Pat and I stared at her with mouths agape. When we realized she wouldn’t take “no comprende” as an answer, we nodded yes, yes.

Here is where I’m living by day and by night. There is the noisiest restaurant in the world right below our apartment, but hopefully only on Saturday nights.
So far it’s been hot and sunny but the nights have been pretty cool.
Sergio Panizza is a man you should all meet. He is the rep. for the rental company here in Roma. You want a fan? Isn’t one enough? What do you mean the pots are rusty?
No stereo? As he scratches his head, suddenly unable to understand English. What to do, what to do? Can’t you shop for those things and I’ll reimburse you? I almost say yes, but my smart side says no. This side of me is often in hiding, but lately it’s been in the forefront of this adventure
.
Would

by day and by night. There is the noisiest restaurant in the world right below our apartment, but hopefully only on Saturday night.
So far it’s been hot and sunny but the nights have been pretty cool. Sergio Panizza is a man you should all meet. He is the rep. for the rental company here in Roma. You want a fan? Isn’t one enough? What do you mean the pots are rusty?
No stereo? As he scratches his head, suddenly unable to understand English. What to do, what to do? Can’t you shop for those things and I’ll reimburse you? I almost say yes, but my smart side says no. This side of me is often in hiding, but lately it’s been in the forefront of this adventure

Would you buy mozzarella from this woman? We did and lived to tell the tale. Actually she was very nice and her friend spoke to us in rapid fire Italian while Pat and I stared at her with mouths agape. When we realized she wouldn’t take “no comprende” as an answer, we nodded yes, yes.Take a look at those veggies. You’ve never seen anything like that in the USA.
These are the original organics. Only eat what’s in season.
More to come soon. Pat is sitting by my side being a real bb and telling me how I have to arrange this blog. I’d throw her out except she’s the only one in this group who can really read a map
Talk later….

No Time Now

Did I aready post this? Because I can't really read Italian I may have posted when I meant to spell check, but then how would
an italian site spell check an English post? Hmmmmmmm.

Gotta go. Talk again from Italia

Everyone who called me today has asked if I’m finished packing. Are there people out there who are finished packing 30 hours before their plane leaves? If there are, please don’t reveal yourselves to me unless you’re the person who packs a change of underwear, a toothbrush and a good book.
I’m at the “Do you really need that?” stage. Do I really need to bring those adorable shoes with the puffy “thingamabobs attached to the fronts? I don’t think I could walk more than a block in them, but doesn’t a girl have to do cute once in a while? (And no smart remarks about being a girl at my age. I’ve got the right equipment, no matter how long I’ve had it, so I’ll call myself a girl if I feel like it.)
I know I’ll get it done on time and won’t pack too much and will regret not bringing that sexy thingy even though I’d probably only wear it once and will bring the pants that never get taken out of the closet and be absolutely sick of wearing that black skirt no matter how great it looks now or how comfortable it is. I know I’m going to lament the shoes with the thingamabobs. Don’t ya think?
Well, anyway, say good-bye. Good-bye house, see you soon. Good-bye New Jersey and the good old USA. Good-bye friends, we’ll talk soon.

Look at this, I tackled one of my gurus when she was at a low point (the best time), was distracted and looking in the other direction. So now I can go to Italy in peace. That's all I have to say about that. If you're bored it's one of the hazards of being my friend. BTW, all misspellings will not be brought to my attention.

Getting started

I've been thinking about starting a blog since I decided to spend the autumn in Rome.
With exactly a week to go before I leave I figured it was time to check it out. So far, not that good.
I want to put pictures in my blog so you can share some of my daily activities.
My friend spent an hour helping me learn how to make my photos web friendly and it's not working. Usually by this point I get a glass of wine and open a book. I have limited tech patience and all my techno gurus are otherwise engaged. Where is the wine?
I'm will have all this cleared up before I leave. I'm also going to copy all the
yoga shows I've been saving on my dvr - as soon as I figure out how my dvd player does that. I have the dvd +rw, not the dvd -r or +r but the dvd +rw. It's makes my teeth hurt just thinking about it.